Patternmaking For Underwear Design.pdf Jun 2026

Follow a similar framework, but the center back line (analogue to A-D) will be longer to account for gluteal volume. The back crotch width (D-E) will be wider, and the leg curve will be shallower to provide more cheek coverage.

Drafting underwear requires a complete shift in mindset from standard garment construction. Because the final product is worn directly against the skin, your pattern precision must be absolute. Stretch Factor and Negative Ease Patternmaking For Underwear Design.pdf

The most crucial element of is understanding stretch percentage. If a pattern does not account for the fabric's stretch, the garment will be either too tight or too loose. Measure the Stretch: Take a piece of fabric and stretch it. If it stretches to , it has 50% stretch. Follow a similar framework, but the center back

The Ultimate Guide to Patternmaking for Underwear Design Mastering underwear design requires a unique blend of technical skill, material knowledge, and precise drafting. Unlike outerwear, undergarments act as a second skin. They must provide comfort, support, and durability while stretching and moving with the body. Because the final product is worn directly against

One evening, frustrated, Maya draped a piece of stretch silk directly on her own body, pinning and clipping in the mirror. She realized the book’s secret wasn’t in the numbers—it was in negative ease . Underwear shouldn’t just fit; it should vanish.

The back pattern requires more depth to accommodate the gluteal curve. Extend the crotch depth line downward by an extra 1 to 2 cm compared to the front.

Note the new length. If it stretches to 13cm, it has . Applying Negative Ease to Your Measurements